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Chitral, a paradise on earth, but...- Article

DAWN

By Maureen Lines

“OH! How wonderful you live in Chitral!” exclaimed a person from the West. I nodded my head. Yes, the area is truly beautiful and I feel very privileged at having spent so much time there. But …

To the outsider, Chitral is a veritable paradise. During the last three years, I have had to commute for both personal reasons and work. Climate too has had a profound effect. I used to spend the spring, summer and autumn in the Kalash valleys but for some years my time there has been reduced to six months.

Although a moratorium was declared on the marking and cutting of green trees back in the early 1990s, the smuggling of timber has continued unabated. The glaciers of the Great Himalaya region are melting at a rate which is increasing annually. Both the inhabitants of the Kalash valley of Birir and of greater Chitral have seen property and agricultural land disappear due to flooding.

Fertile land has been bought from the locals by outsiders to build hotels but now there no tourists to fill them. The promise of jobs therefore has not materialised. Ill-conceived planning vis-à-vis the Kalash, have left both locals and outsiders bemused, when, for example, it was announced a few months back, that there would be a scheme for training 30 tourist guides. This was further aggravated when the people of Kalash were not consulted about advertisements for their own traditional spring festival.

Although a Kalash Advisory Board was established three years ago, with the blessing of both the provincial and federal governments, there was a lack of enthusiasm on the part of the members; only a few attended the meetings. Both short- and long-term plans were drawn up and funds provided. Hopefully, this board will be reactivated very soon.

Besides November and December it is also often very cold in April and October in these valleys. In Chitral, there is no firewood, unless people can afford the legal but expensive deadwood brought in from the valleys.

People are now using cow dung and any available rubbish for heating and cooking. As Chitral is cut off by road from the rest of the country for five to six months a year, gas cylinders are not always available for even those who can afford them. Regardless of the time of year, electricity is rare. It comes from upper Chitral and Peshawar. Heavy winds, rain and snow or problems down-country make it very unreliable. Only in Rumbur has the river been harnessed and the inhabitants receive adequate electricity, thanks, in part, to the late Mr Minoo Bhandara.

Whereas the side valleys of Chitral have freshwater springs (even these are fast drying up), water of any kind is scarce in Chitral especially safe drinking water. In my small mud-brick house-cum-office in Chitral, I have a regiment of pipes. One is a government pipeline for drinking water; the second is from a nearby gol; and a third from a nearby water channel.

To work on the computer is a luxury. The Internet? Perhaps around midnight if one is lucky. Making phone calls is difficult. The lines are not sufficient for a growing population. Even if a connection is made, it doesn’t last. If someone needs expert medical treatment especially in winter — prayer is their only recourse. In this paradise on earth from where nine Chitral Scouts travelled to a paradise of another kind, it is difficult to make a journey down-country. With the Lowari Pass closed every winter and the subsequent death of those who brave the snow and ice, the only way to travel to Peshawar is by air.

Last month, there were only three flights between Peshawar and Chitral. But few can afford the Rs6,000 return air fare and even for those who can it is very frustrating. To add to the people’s woes, it has been said that Saturday’s flight to Chitral has been re-routed to Kabul.

Now there is the tunnel. Is that going to be a true solution to the Chitralis’ problems? A local politico and newsman, Fardad Ali Shah, suggests that the idea of the electric train should be abandoned. It should be obvious to everyone, including the government, that this is simply not viable. The money saved could be put to better use for the people of Chitral.

Nine young men were killed and the nightmare of the Chitralis continues. Yes, people are fleeing war zones in Malakand and need everyone’s sympathy and help. Neglect and narrow vision, however, breeds discontent and can eventually lead to extremism. --Dawn

 

 

 

 

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